The collection brings together form and irregularity.&nbsp;

Sheer fabrics set the direction for Jonathan Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection for Dior. Chiffon, organza and lace were pleated, layered and knotted into trailing bows, giving the clothes movement right from the start. All that delicacy needed something to push against though, and the creative director knew it.Cropped jackets, double-breasted blazers and sharply cut coats repeatedly brought the silhouettes back to the spotlight.<o:p></o:p>

The range showcased metallic silver-green trousers glinting underneath oversized tailoring, checks running into stripes, Impressionistic florals breaking up a mostly muted palette of grey, beige, black and white, and yellow, light blue and pink sneaking in to soften the range’s harder edges. Compact Saddle bags, simple shoes and long earrings, the accessories didn’t try to steal anything. They did their job and got out of the way.<o:p></o:p>
 Then there were the Wenwan walnuts Anderson had sent to guests beforehand. In Chinese tradition these are prized for their odd shapes and the sheen they pick up from years of being handled, which works as a pretty good metaphor for what he’s up to at the Maison. He likes surfaces that earn their character through texture and wear. Polished one moment and deliberately rough the next, the clothes showed it too.<o:p></o:p>

Shown on a white runway above the Jardin des Tuileries’s octagonal basin, the collection also returned to Dior’s longstanding preoccupation towards silhouette. If anything, the New Look appeared more as a reference with waists were implied instead of tightly cinched, while volume became shorter and easier to move in.

Photo: Adrien Dirand

Whereas the original&nbsp;Dior revolution was all about occupying space, this one wonders what happens when it begins to flow away.<o:p></o:p>

Jonathan Anderson reworks Dior references for Summer 2027

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