Rising Chinese designer Rui Zhou on gender fluidity and the relationship between fabric and skin.

Shanghai-based, Parsons graduate Rui Zhou (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/ruiofficial.me/?hl=en">@ruiofficial.me</a>) rose to fame thanks to her ability to use a soft language to pronounce hard shapes. Zhou&rsquo;s works compellingly explore fashion through a dynamic art form. Her unconventional silhouettes often form an intimacy between the skin and fabric, body and garment, entity and boundary&mdash;a relationship that is poetic, subtle and elegant.
Her ready-to-wear label, <a href="https://www.ruiofficial.me/">RUI</a>, both amplifies and reveals the body through knit bodysuits, circular and oval cut-outs, and form-fitting separates. Her gentle yet impactful designs have also managed to strip away any gender connotations by treating the body shape as a frame.
Since then, the label has drawn the attention of the industry, as well as celebrities and singers of the likes of Dua Lipa and Solange. Last year, Zhou was one of the nine finalists for the LVMH Prize and went on to win the Karl Lagerfeld Special Prize.

How would you describe your style of work?
RUI explores the idea of imperfection throughout all the collections. The senses we explore tend to revolve around tension&mdash;delicate but gentle.
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What was your earliest memory of fashion?
I don&rsquo;t remember what was the earliest moment when I came into contact with fashion, because it is hard to say what is fashion, most of the time people confuse it with &ldquo;trends&rdquo;.
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Growing up in China, has your background in any way influenced the work you do now?
The city I grew up in is an inland city of China, surrounded by mountains and trees. Probably the quiet and unsophisticated life experience allows me to think more about myself and keeps me curious about exploring the nature of things.

I love the non-binary identities that are explored through your gender-fluid collections. What do gender and fashion mean to you? 
Gender fluidity has always been the fundamental core value behind our brands. When we started our brand, we didn&rsquo;t and still don&rsquo;t intend to have just one target group of people to propose to; we aim to use our designs as a medium of self- expression and self-awareness.
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Your garments honour all shapes and sizes. How would you describe the relationship between the body and your designs?
I hope my designs can bring more body positivity&mdash;mostly in the acceptance and appreciation of oneself.
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There&rsquo;s often a sculpture-like approach to your garments; what&rsquo;s your creative process like?
It really depends on the different textures of clothing for me, and using a rich fashion language to express concepts.
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What excites you the most when it comes to fashion design?
Balance and creativity.

Outside fashion, what are you into and want to learn?
Bartending or tattooing, if possible.
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Tell us more about your upcoming S/S &rsquo;22 &ldquo;In Residence&rdquo; collection.
Spring/Summer 2022 interprets a texture of the home in our hearts. It&rsquo;s about a life that we used to be familiar with, and the places which were ordinary but warmed the heart.
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Last question, what&rsquo;s next for Rui Zhou?
Rui is going to be off-work today and have a drink with friends&mdash;it&rsquo;s Friday.

Interview: Rui Zhou on her gender-fluidity and her label RUI

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